Notes from the North

  How many of Edinburgh’s many churches are on the regular tourist trail? There’s St Giles Cathedral, otherwise known as the High Kirk of Edinburgh, and Greyfriars Kirk or at least its graveyard. Further down the Royal Mile there’s the Canongate Kirk where the royals have been known to worship. But Old St Paul’s on Jeffrey Street – why would anyone go there?  It’s easy to miss it, squashed into a site right next to Carrubbers Close and more or less opposite the back entrance of Waverley Station. All you see is a narrow façade pressed up against the hill behind, a sign identifying it as Edinburgh's oldest episcopalian church and an arched doorway     But beyond that door are thirty-three steps which lead up towards a carved stone calvary and the entrance to the church itself. The interior is dark on the January afternoon when I visit. Candles make weak pools of light here and there. Seven sanctuary lights flicker above the ornate high altar.  There are ...