Notes from the North 10
The main art exhibition at this year’s Festival has been Grayson Perry’s ‘Smash Hits’ (on until 12 November). I haven’t been to that. The pink-plastered pillars at the RSA entrance hint at the colour inside but they don’t entice me in. Nor does the prospect of the naked Grayson or more Alan Measles, the teddy bear we know too much of. There are lots more challenging artists on show. The most obvious one is at the City Art Centre behind Waverley Station, a Retrospective of Peter Howson.
The exhibitions at the CAC are usually free. The Howson is not but you get a wristband that allows you to leave and come back later in the day. Perhaps that’s no bad thing as there are about 100 works spread over 3 floors and none of them makes for easy viewing.
The exhibition rightly makes much of his time as a war artist in Bosnia and then in Kosovo. Both of those experiences had a profound and lasting effect on him.
He is said to be an intensely private man of few words but he has made two videos for this exhibition in which he speaks eloquently about what motivates him to paint and particularly about his faith. Christ features often in his more recent paintings but almost always in agony.
The exhibitions at the CAC are usually free. The Howson is not but you get a wristband that allows you to leave and come back later in the day. Perhaps that’s no bad thing as there are about 100 works spread over 3 floors and none of them makes for easy viewing.
Peter Howson wasn't born in Scotland, but Prestwick in Ayrshire, was his home from the age of 4. He studied at the Glasgow School of Art but the programme doesn’t seem to have suited him. He failed the first time and dropped out the second. Perhaps it was too remote from the ‘real world’, the muscular working men and the homeless who were so often the material of his early paintings.
The exhibition rightly makes much of his time as a war artist in Bosnia and then in Kosovo. Both of those experiences had a profound and lasting effect on him.
He is said to be an intensely private man of few words but he has made two videos for this exhibition in which he speaks eloquently about what motivates him to paint and particularly about his faith. Christ features often in his more recent paintings but almost always in agony.
His Christianity clearly gives him succour but the message of redemption is muted by the visual clamour of a world in conflict, male aggression, fire and rape.
This is great, but demanding, art. Fortunately for the viewer it has been well curated and is spread across a calm, uncluttered space.
Much further out from the city centre are Modern Art One and Two. Modern One is currently showing work by Alberta Whittle. Born in Bridgetown, Barbados, Whittle came to Scotland to study, first at Edinburgh School of Art, then in Glasgow. Some of the work on show here has transferred from her Scotland + Venice exhibition at last year's Biennale.
The current Modern One exhibition, ‘Create Dangerously’ (the title is from the essay by Albert Camus) is on until 7 January 2024 so there is still plenty of time to visit if you haven’t already. Of all the artwork I’ve seen over the past months this is, to me, the most engaging. Using a huge range of materials and techniques – paint, tapestry, collage, film, performance - Whittle works both solo and collaboratively with other black women (she calls them her 'accomplices'). Her aim is to counter anti-blackness, explore the legacies of chattel slavery and colonialism and the enduring challenges of migration. There are handwoven blankets on some of the seats in the rooms, as there were in the Biennale where visitors were also offered herbal teas. She is explicit about the need for care and nurture to be woven into her practice. No wonder her work exudes such warmth, colour and vigour.
The structure in the photo above is made of painted metal and wood. It honours the Barbadian Musician Neville Denis Blackman, better known as the Great Carew. He died on 3 August 1995 when his house was swept out to sea in a storm. The work both acknowledges the impact of the climate crisis on people of colour, disproportionally affected by rising seas and extreme weather and evokes the history of the island where enslaved men, women and children, lived in chattel houses like the one pictured here, built from salvaged materials.
It’s easy to miss the small gate with its sign, ‘private allotments’ on the left near the Modern Two gallery on the other side of Belford Road. The gate isn’t usually locked and in these late summer days what lies behind it is a carefully tended profusion of vegetables, fruit and flowers.
Don’t pick anything - just walk round the beds and enjoy what the gardeners have grown.
If the shorter days and the feeling of endings make you want to do some of your own harvesting all you need is a plastic bag and some spare time. At present Holyrood Park has enough brambles to feed a village. The weather is dry and warm. No better time to get the preserving pan out.


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